Euclid Probe – Assembled
$49.50 AUD inc GST
Micro-switch based probing assembly for 3D printers, lasers and CNC machines.
- Highly accurate and consistent omron D2F-5 microswitch
- Magnetically coupled with screw fastened countersunk magnets
- Upto 80c operating temperature
Please see below for further information and assembly instructions.
Euclid probe is the most reliable and secure method for 3D printer bed levelling to date.
Magnetically coupled and detacheable probes such as the Quickdraw and Klicky have utilised press fitted magnets into 3D printed parts.
The magnets are prone to becoming loose and wandering out of their set positions on both the probe itself and the toolhead carriage that collects the probe. Once loose enough, with repeated docking and undocking cycles the magnets can and will pop out.
This will result in inconsistent readings at best and failed homing, levelling, meshing and even hardware malfunction and damage at worst.
Euclid Probe uses screw fastened magnets for attaching the magnets to the pcb parts. This assembly acts as both a mechanical coupling aswell as electrical connection between probe and printer. The Z-Probe circuit is completed when the probe is attached to the dock.
Euclid probe works with virtually any surface, including but not limited to:
- Textured PEI flexplates
- Smooth glass
..and allows swapping of build surfaces without the need of adjusting z-probe offsets to maintain your optimal first layer.
Configuration is flexible, allowing for the Euclid to be used as both a standalone Z-probe or as a combination of both z-probe and endstop.
A detailed assembly video can be found here:
For more information on assembly instructions, printed parts, wiring guides and firmware configurations please visit the Euclid Probe website here:
Assembled, DIY Kit
1 review for Euclid Probe – Assembled
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shaneshort (verified owner) –
After getting frustrated with magnets pulling out of my klicky probes, I ended up purchasing 2 of the DIY kits to replace it. It was so dead simple that I think it’s actually substantially easier to build than the normal klicky ones. I simply re-used the wiring from the Omron sensor and I was off to the races.